Ireland: Ring of Kerry
The proprietor of the B&B (I assume) showed up to cook breakfast, providing a breath of fresh air compared to the woman of the day before. You know, I just looked at the website and we did NOT get either of the lovely looking rooms pictured. I mean, it was an adequate room back in the back of the house but it looked kind of tired. The nice, warm rooms in the picture are apparently not for those on travel vouchers. Hmm. At least I can remain secure in the knowledge that I did not pick badly. I was misled by the pretty pictures of the nice rooms.
Anyway, I had waffles for breakfast and James went with the scrambled eggs. We were not feeling up to the white and black pudding today. The B&B had some cool artwork around the dining rooms, all done by the same guy (whose name I cannot remember and it's driving me a little bit crazy right now), and we admired it as we were leaving. The proprietor asked what we were planning to do, and we told him the Ring of Kerry. He said that was good, that we had planned a whole day for it, because a lot of people tried to do it in a half day, and you certainly could, but...
On the road again! It was overcast and threatening rain. We stopped at a beach on the Dingle Bay and took a few photos. Our guidebook directed us to stop at the Bog Village, but with our luck we weren't sure it would be open and James vetoed the idea.
I think we drove over to Valentia Island...but we couldn't figure out anyplace to stop so we just kept driving. Damn rain. We stopped off at the Skelligs Island Experience, but we had missed the boat that would take us out to the islands (which we knew already, plus it probably would have been miserable on this day) but we thought we'd see if anything was interesting at the visitor's center. It wasn't. They had a video you could pay to watch, and there was a tour bus that arrived just after we did that was watching the video, but we opted out and went to lunch in the little town across the water, which was called Portmagee. The Bridge Bar was mentioned in the handy guidebook and hey! there it was. So we had seafood chowder. It was good, and the bar was nice and there was a peat fire, which I liked, but we were the only people in there and the locals were not exactly welcoming.
We kept driving and eventually came to a parking lot on top of some mountain? hill? (Coomakista Pass) so we pulled in. The wind was brutal and whatever was falling from the sky seemed to be icy. We got out to take a few pictures and nearly got blown off the cliff. Well, not really but the wind was blowing really hard. And whatever was falling made the photography a challenge. There's a random statue in the middle of the parking lot. Wikipedia tells me it's the Virgin Mary.
Coming down the mountain/hill from Coomakista Pass, we saw some beaches that probably would be really cute in the summer. But the rain, it continued. We noticed that we were rapidly coming close to our destination for the evening and it was only 2:00 in the afternoon, so we headed off the beaten path toward the Staigue stone fort. Down winding one-lane roads we went ... only to discover that the fort -- which had a chainlink fence around it -- was closed. So that was that. At least we saw it, I suppose.
We were staying in Sneem, which was apparently a cute and quaint fishing village according to the guidebooks. It technically is still on the Ring of Kerry, which officially ends in the next town, Kenmare. I had grossly overestimated the time we would spend -- or want to spend -- driving the Ring, so we got to Sneem early in the afternoon. It was pouring rain and cold. We almost missed the town, it was so small. We kept thinking there had to be more to it, but alas, there was not. There was a little town circle, but all the shops seemed closed, and there weren't even that many shops to begin with. James suggested we drive on to Kenmare and see if there was anything to do there.
Kenmare was ... much the same as Sneem. But there was a bit of a shopping area and a cafe where we stopped to warm up. We spent a bit of time looking at a sort of general store, where I was tempted by the Aran sweaters but still unable to commit. Everything closed by 4 or 5 so we headed back to Sneem.
James found a hotel in either Sneem or Kenmare that he really wanted to stay at, as they it looked modern and there was a nice fireplace and a restaurant, but we had already pre-paid the B&B so I didn't want to do it. It was such a miserable day, and we weren't having a superfun time, so I probably would have caved in but he didn't push it.
We headed back to our B&B in Sneem (we had this room), where we were met by a college student from Illinois who was living there while she student-taught for a semester. She gave us tea and a snack and told us how she was having a great time and she could fly to Paris for just 20 euros on Ryan Air and she was going to Germany next week to see the Christmas Markets and that had only cost her 15 euros or something ridiculously low like that.
As we were finishing our snack, Maureen, the proprietor arrived home from some meeting she had had to go to. She said the weather was horrible, even by Irish standards, and she was betting we'd lose power, she was sure of it, they'd already lost power in the next town over ... so we had better go eat now if we were going into town. (She said there'd be no problem with breakfast in the morning if she did lose power, since she cooked with gas.) She recommended Dan Murphys. Actually she said that was pretty much our only option, but it was good and the prices were reasonable. (She noted that most people in Ireland don't eat out -- only the tourists. At least we fit the bill!) We had a lovely dinner in the pub, sitting by the peat fire. I had lamb stew. I find that I don't actually like lamb, or at least not this lamb. It was pretty tough. But the stew was good, it had lots of big bright orange carrots. There was only one lady there, serving behind the bar, and she was putting candles out in case they lost power, but they didn't, at least not while we were there.
We headed back to the B&B after dinner, and were hoping to be invited to sit by the fire, as had been mentioned (though not promised) earlier in the evening, but we didn't see anyone after we let ourselves in, so we just headed to our room. There was satellite TV but because of the weather or some other glitch, we weren't getting very many channels, but we did at least have internet access, so we could play on James's iPad, and I read some more and then we went to bed early again.
Posted by Molly
at 12:01 AM EST